The prestigious Annandale Gallery, built as a Methodist Church in 1860, converted to a Masonic Hall in the early 1920’s now holds a unique position in the landscape of Sydney, Australia. The gallery owners have earned their reputation in the art world, through specializing in showing the best of Australian and overseas contemporary art.
July 22nd was exceptional from the outset. The invitation spoke about rare art on view for the first time, from a remote tropical island, of the tiny South Pacific archipelago of Vanuatu. Secret ceremonial art which had never before been seen outside Vanautu. A group of nine Ni-Vanuatu artists, dressed in full regalia, would perform a secret sacred dance, from the island of Ambrym, at the opening. It all sounded rather mysterious and lots of fun.
Gentle island music greeted the guests as they arrived at the tall imposing building in the heart of a trendy upmarket inner Sydney suburb. Sipping a glass of French champagne the guests buzzed with excitement, as they admired the beautifully carved wooden figures and masks. Among the artifacts was a four metre wooden tam tam (tall thin log drum), one of the world’s largest free standing musical instruments.
“This art is unique to Vanuatu and traditionally kept hidden from the outside world, because it belongs to a secret and sacred society.” David Baker, the Gallery’s curator described the art as stunning. “Only similar piece has been found in a British museum. The art could easily be mistaken for any piece of modern artwork. This work has the art world agog.”
Suddenly a barely clad figure stepped up to the huge drum and began a steady methodical beat on the lip of the wooden carved face. A face that had been stylized to represent an ancestor. The slit up the front of the drum allowing the ancestor to speak once more. The eyes representing the morning star.
Four dancers, covered from head to toe, in what looked like a tent outfit made of dry leaves, with a painted wooden mask, topped with chicken feathers, covered the faces of the men. In a slow rhythmic, almost dreamlike shuffle, they advanced to the center of the room. With a monotone chant, they moved as one. In the middle of these four dancers, rhythmically stomping, clapping and chanting, came five other men dressed, in the full regalia of their secret society, a bright red hibiscus flower over one ear. ‘Full regalia’ being a misnomer.
Shock registered on the Sydney matrons’ faces as the five mature Ambrym men, dressed only with a wide bark belt slung low over their hips and a Nambas penis sheath, barely covering the essential part of their manhood, concentrated on their complicated sacred dance. The performers appeared to be unaware of the sensation they were causing, as their gleaming well formed buttocks jiggled up and down in time to the beat.
“It used to be that if a woman looked on these dancers she was killed. Even today, women are not permitted to touch these men,” one of the guests laughed, as she explained to me later, what she had been told. “When the dancers first entered the room it was rather difficult to know where to look. I haven’t seen that much bare buttock since my four children were babies.”
Two cultures could not be more different. Ladies who never even think about electricity when they casually switch on the lights, or put their hands under the tap for running water. Ladies who drive in their shiny modern cars to well stocked supermarkets to buy groceries from all over the world. Before them were men who sleep on woven mats on a coral floor. Water seldom comes from a tap and electricity is non existent in their home villages. Communication is often limited to the mystical language of the gong. Their supermarket is a ride in a dug out canoe to glean the fish from the ocean, or a walk out the to village garden.
Yet these dancers come from a nation voted as the Happiest Country on Earth in 2006. What is their secret? Their environmental footprint is one of the lightest in the world. Their longevity surpassing that of many other nations. A society where family relationships are valued far above possessions.
The head on collision of two cultures will long be remembered in the minds of all who attended the opening on July 22nd.
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