Vanuatu has a society that stuns the senses of the Western world. The first time traveler, walking in finds an ancient society that is the opposite of everything that we know as modern.
The rhythm of the beat of South Pacific island life first greets you on arrival, at the airport, during the day or even at the midnight flight. A string band, in brightly coloured Vanuatu style clothes and beaming welcoming smiles, bursts into life as soon as the plane lands. Visitors toes begin tapping, in spite of the tedium of the ritual custom clearance, all air travelers experience the world over.
Ni-Vanuatu are a special people, quietly spoken and friendly. The custom official appears to whisper to you. The taxi drivers, after greater contact with Westerners, are little more gregarious. The streets are a-buzz with warm greetings, smiles and handshakes, with only a few loud voices heard, usually among the youth.
Teenagers though are beginning to dance to a different beat, thanks to the world of DVDs and TV. With the coming of Digicel to Vanuatu, teenagers are now seen walking the street, clutching their newly acquired, special introductory priced, cell phone.
For generations, bare feet have propelled the Ni-Vanuatu people over long distances every day. Far from capital, Port Vila, deep in the rural areas, family groups walk each day to source their food supply at their remote village gardens. Weekend visits to family and church involve treks over long distances, even up to 6 hours walking.
These peoples lives are not bound by the ticking of a clock. Very few Ni-Vanuatu people are seen to wear a wrist watch. Their sense of time is bound by the seasons and the tide. How far is somewhere? “When you get there”. Can you give me directions? “Two banyan trees away and beside the large clump of bamboo,” is the sort of answer you will get. There are no street numbers and very few road signs. It is a nightmare for the westerner to navigate.
Stress is foreign to these people and much can be learned from their gentle way of life, provided you ignore the occasional family argument. You have to experience it to begin to understand that there is another way of life, far from the rush and push of the maddening crowds and the modern Rat Race we have come to accept as the norm.
From under the banyan tree come peels of raucous laughter as the young males share news and discuss music. The girls can be heard giggling over the cooking pots. As they nurture the young in the extended family, the laughter is discretely hidden behind hands, in front of strangers. The peace and quiet of the village is broken only by the occasional ceremonial killing of their ‘bank’ the well cared for pig, or the scrap of a couple of village dogs.
To the Ni-Vanuatu communities, family and relationships are more important than possessions. The paramount village chief will settle family disputes, take care of misdemeanors and even adjudicate the more serious crimes outside the criminal system. However, time is turning like the tide in these areas, as more and more teenagers imitate the ways of the West.
With the introduction of Digicel to these beautiful tropical islands, things are changing. Large bill boards blot out the landscape for the first time, enticingly displaying all the wonders of modern communication through the use of a cell phone.
As Vanuatu faces its 18th election since independence in 1980, the custom ways and economy of generations past are being increasingly threatened by western approaches to law and order, business and civil society. This Lesser Developed Country has acknowledged that progress for the next generation means education. Mothers, like mothers all over the world, are particularly aware of the desperate and urgent need to educate the next generation. They want to see their childrens’ dreams, of being a doctor, nurse, or teacher fulfilled.
Yet, the need for education is urgent, if good governance of the only stable political system of the South Pacific is to survive. However, the Vanuatu government admitted in 2007 that it is unable to adequately resource education. No education in Vanuatu is free. School fees cannot be paid by the islanders living in remote ‘no-cash economies’.
The appalling consequences of this are:
· only 55.8% of Vanuatu kids will get to grade 6;
· of those only 18.2% will go to high school ;
· 26% will never go to school at all.
These horrific statistics have changed little since the survey in 1999. You can find more information of how you can help these kids by going to http://winaresort.com
